This has been on my list since I started running. With three small children and only totalling 20-30 minutes on a treadmill 3-4 times a week, it felt completely out of reach. My training has developed so much since then, I am beyond excited!
I travel up on Saturday to register and spend the night in my van in Glen Nevis campsite, a half mile from registration. Snuggling up with my book, a cup of tea and mizzly views of the lower slopes of Ben Nevis.
Day 1 Fort William – Glenfinnan
23miles, 500m ascent
15th, 3:30:46
A group meets at the football club to wander down to the ferry. Jo Meek is in the second wave and as I’m walking past her car she sticks her head out of the window with an enormous grin and shouts ‘oooo I know you! Have a good run!’ At that moment I have no idea how much she’ll make us laugh!
We make the ferry crossing over Loch Linnhe and are welcomed by a piper, tea, coffee and biscuits until the second ferry load of runners arrives and its finally time to go.
I soon team up with Ieuan. We met on the Dragon’s Back Race and it’s like I’m catching up with an old friend.
There are 6miles of road before a right turn into a glorious valley, a hint of what’s to come! Highland cows with their calves straddle the tracks oblivious to our mad mission. We eventually turn up to a little col before descending into a forest and to the finish.
The camp shelters beneath the famous Glenfinnan viaduct of Harry Potter movies fame. We’re even lucky enough to see the steam train.
Chips and soup are devoured for afternoon snack then I head back to set up my tent space and sort my bag for tomorrow before returning for dinner and peppermint slice. I’m too excited to sleep.
Day 2 Glenfinnan to Kinloch Hourn
35miles, 1800m ascent
11th, 8:37:38
I leave early to avoid the day’s heat. It’s already warm as we head beneath the viaduct and up the valley. It’s a relief to climb higher away from the midges. The terrain becomes wilder as the day progresses. There’s an awkward, pathless section through rocky, boggy ground with the steep hills flanking either side and loads of deer before we drop down and head to CP2 at Carnoch bridge.
An easy wide track then disappears into a nothingness and I nearly miss the tiny trod taking us up to the col. I work hard to catch the two men ahead and the photographer reminds me to look behind and take in the stunning views although every which way I look it is amazing. There’s a lovely descent towards Barrisdale Bay.
Camp chatter had alarmed me about the final section along the shores of Loch Beag. I’m so relieved to find its exactly the terrain I love, a pretty, rolling trod through heather, with a tiny dark stint through Rhododendron bushes until we hit the final 800m or so of road. Some people in a boat are following me along cheering and clapping.
My heart sings.
The road to the camp is the longest dead end road in the UK 22miles long…the camp run out of water and the event team have to drive to fill up, a 3 hr round trip! We’re so excited when we’re treated to fizzy pop while we wait!
No phone reception
Day 3
Kinloch Hourn to Achnashellach
42miles, 2400m ascent
10th, 10:19:35
I have a mandatory late start of 8am. There aren’t many people left although the midges more than make up the numbers.
The paths are soon really busy around Sgurr na Forcan. It’s a fantastic run down to the valley track towards Sheil Bridge.
Then a long stretch of flat running until we enter the forestry paths heading towards the Falls of Glomach. I initially take the wrong descent to the viewing platform and quickly right myself.
There’s a lovely runnable stretch along Loch na Leitreach and I continue alone until I finally catch Alister up on the climb past Loch Cruoshie through the pathless bog. By now the wind has picked up. There are beautiful tiny sandy beaches which are today battered by the rolling waves of Loch Calavie. We form a good team from then onward, battling the wind and keeping each other motivated. There’s a huge area of boggy ground before I pull away from him on the final climb of the day. It’s wonderful when the camp finally comes into sight, although it takes an eternity to reach. A beautiful descent through bouncy pine covered trails and across the wide river. One of my favourite days (for now)!
It’s so warm in camp I can wash properly in the river.
Phone home!
Day 4
Achnashellach to Kinlochewe
22miles 1400m ascent
15th, 5:51:58
A day of two halves.
It’s a misty, cold morning and I leave wearing full waterproofs. A short stint on road out of camp then over the railway line and we follow one of the most gorgeous trails lined with heather, pine trees, huge boulders alongside the River Lair. The small trail climbs up to a col before a gorgeous stony descent to Lochan an lasgair and the CP. A deer is standing a few metres on, completely oblivious to all the runners.
As we climb up the large stone steps towards Loch Coire Mhic Fhearchair, the sun is beginning to beat down. The waterfall and views of the surrounding hills are spectacular with the high rocky Mountains towering above us.
There’s an awkward descent through heathery, rocky, boggy, completely pathless shit. I try my best to pick a good line, I don’t think there is one. It’s a long but fun trudge up and down, up and down, until I finally reach a beautiful white stone track that glistens like jewels in the sun. It’s a fun, twisty, turny, fast route down into camp.
We have all arrived at a similar time and head to the freezing river together. We sit in the sunshine with our chips and juice, it’s a lovely, relaxing afternoon filled with chatter and laughter.
Then search around for phone signal…there isn’t any!
Day 5
Kinlochewe – Inverbroom
27miles, 1400m ascent
17th, 6:00:56
I’m not feeling it today. A mandated late start and being trapped with millions of midges until I can finally leave is not good. It takes me ages to catch anyone up. I feel quite lonely, I’m missing family. There’s a few miles of road and flat fire track before turning left towards a pretty meandering trail around Loch Glean na Muice and Loch an Sgeireach. The path disappears as we climb over thankfully dry, huge peat hags. I mistakenly relax on reaching a trod along Bealach na Croise only to realise I should be heading right to run along Loch an Nid. We bomb down over the dry bogs until we reach a well used trail following the river. It ascends and circuits across dry stony landscape then drops towards the final checkpoint.
A steep grassy ascent follows with beautiful small trails across the tops until I reach a gate and plummet down into camp. A most excellent, fun descent!
The sea Loch has bright blue waters and looks so inviting. I’m not impressed by my performance. It felt hard. I hadn’t fuelled or drunk enough.
Despite the tempting clarity of the sea Loch waters it’s too far and so I find the least muddy section of river to wash and freeze my legs whilst I drink my tea and phone home!
Ice lollies and ice creams are our surprise camp treat!
Day 6
Inverbroom – Inchnadamph
45miles, 1400m ascent
11th, 8:47:36
The bonus for being slow means I can leave whenever I fancy. This cheers me up immensely. We’re warned someone has been in the forest and put up signs ‘run/race’ pointing the wrong way.
I really enjoy playing catch. We climb considerably then there’s the most fun descent over tussocky boggy terrain. It gets more and more rough. We follow a beautiful river with many waterfalls, just the place to while a way a few hours…on another day!
There’s a wide track after CP1 which continues to follow craggy rivers then through forestry land before dropping down to CP3 on the shore of loch Ailish.
I’ve stupidly underestimated the day. It becomes boggier, the track disappears and the weather closes in, until we’re climbing up toward the col below Coninval. I can’t see much at all, I lose sight of the two runners ahead. Panic rises but I take a few deep breaths, get my finger on my map and make my way slowly down towards the river Traligill. There are peat hags to clamber over (and the welcome sight of a photographer meaning I’m in the right place) before I choose a silly route down a gully and knock a huge rock off onto my foot.
The last section is a delight wiggling it’s way along the riverbanks towards the sea before the hallowed tents are in sight!
I hadn’t looked forward to today, the map showed mile upon mile of flat road/track but I love, love, loved day 6.
Day 7
Inchnadamph – Kinlochbervie
38miles, 1600m ascent
8th, 8:55:14
This was a beast of a day. It was long, brutal yet so rewarding. Tiny rocky trails gradually ascend into the mist. A lovely steepish descent, some skiddy boggy bits but the views are incredible. A short run along a river to the boathouse/bothy at Glencoul then there’s a steep climb again up
into cloud to quickly descend over pink granite to the Loch Glendhu shores which are covered in seaweed.
The already shitty weather takes a distinct turn for the worse, the rain and wind strengthen, it’s really claggy. I put on all of my waterproofs before ascending up towards Ben Dreavie, the only summit on the CWU route. Thankfully here there are breaks in the cloud so I can align the pathless boggy land with the map. Fernando and I traverse this godforsaken place together, I’m pleased to have company.
Finally the sun comes out and it’s a gorgeous track down to the next CP when I fall into step with Ian, a lovely treat as I’ve spent most of my time alone. We get too excited on the wide track picking up our speed and it’s with heavy hearts that we realise the route again takes us left across pathless bogs. The intermittent path alongside Loch a Garbo-bhaid Moir is amongst the worst on the whole route. It’s a long slog and it’s with joy to hear Ian shout that he’s hit the road leading us to camp.
I keep him within reach along the road and muster up a silly sprint finish into camp where warm showers await, a strong sea breeze and no midges! Oh my goodness those warm showers with their pitiful stream of water were the absolute best!!!
Day 8
Kinlochbervie – Cape Wrath
16miles, 700m ascent
11th, 3:22:49
The short one
I’m allowed to set off at 7, before everyone else (except the leaders Jo and David) There’s a group of speedies who left before me, they disappear as I negotiate round the little paths and through gates only to appear again hurtling over a very high stone wall!
Run along coastal roads before turn right onto the track to Sandwood Bay. There is a small Srathchailleach Bothy where ‘Sandy’ lived a simple life for over 30 years…I can see why, this place is a little part of heaven. I can now hear the waves roaring and crashing against the coastline then glimpse the turquoise waters and explosions of waves as they hit the beach. Sensational!
I try to head towards the sea to find firmer sand but the tide is too far out and soon I give up traversing the shortest route to the next climb.
As I cross the pebbly river Sam catches me up, as usual bouncy and cheerful. I proceed to cling onto his lead for the rest of the run.
I’d feared the rough, pathless ground but it’s an absolute joy to run across, bouncy and soft.
A few short sharp climbs, a lovely run along a meandering river before the road and Cape Wrath Lighthouse comes into view. I’m quite emotional as I round the bend but can do nothing but smile, as I see the finish line and the men cheering me in.
Overall 10th, 2nd Female, 55:26:32
We warm up with soup and tea in the lighthouse cafe before alighting for an extremely surreal and bumpy bus journey along a narrow and pot-holed road before a tiny ferry takes us to the mainland and the final camp at Keoldale. Where celebrations and the most beautiful dinner of veggie haggis, neaps and tatties await!
It’s hard to put into words what this race has meant. How it’s touched my heart and my soul. I’ve been away from my family for too long and that I’ve found incredibly hard. There have been times where I’ve cried on the trail, desperate to see and hug those I love. The ‘what on earth am I doing moments’ but they don’t last for long. This is life affirming adventure. I’m bursting with pride and joy. My memory jar is spilling over. It’s been such a whirlwind. My tent mates have brought infinite amounts of joy to the week. We’ve laughed, we’ve cried, we’ve shared things that will never be talked about outside of CW! We’ve bonded in a way that is hard to describe.
CWU learning and tips.
I absolutely adore stage races, especially when it’s a new landscape to explore.
Midnight snacks are a thing to embrace.
You can never eat enough chips.
Hugs are priceless (thanks Michael and Nikki!)
Drinking from streams and rivers is a game changer.
Washing in rivers is great. Freezing your legs actually does help revive muscles and lessen soreness!
If weight allows, pack a book!
Even better, if weight allows, pack a hot water bottle! (That thing saved me after I stupidly washed my hair and got very cold on Day7…thank you Debbie!)
Keep your camp bag organised so you don’t have to empty it ALL over the tent floor daily!
Set up your running bag the night before.
Eat! Eat! Eat!
Pick your tent mates wisely, it makes a huge difference.
Lack of sleep and lots of running causes increased cortisol which means everyone ends up looking like they’ve done 10 rounds with Tyson Fury!
Be careful what you find and place on the lost and found table!!
Ourea events provide exceptional races, thank you for the memories!
Photos credited to no limits photography and my bib number
Elaine Bisson 
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